Spraying the cavities with and inch or so of foam could possibly work if you can get sufficient R value to prevent the dew point problem, but it’s hard to control. How to Calculate Board Feet: Measure the square footage of the area to foam. The link you provided had a lot of information about new construction in hot humid climates. Trusses were installed on the roof with a 10″ energy heel. I am wanting to re-insulate a vertical wall which exists between a finished ‘attic’ and an unfinished attic. Obviously a 2×4 cavity full of cellulose with a plywood floor on top isn’t going to have an R-value anywhere near the R-38 I should be aiming at. This is not only a warm environment (75-85 degrees year round) but it is also humid. These would run parallel to the existing rafters, from the knee wall up to the new collar ties (no new ridge needed). Have you investigated the flooding situation? You’ll need to discuss this with your local building code official. The sponge factor is definitely going to be an issue. Tammy – Wow that really stinks! It really depends on the basement. Sounds like I was on the right path…I’ll fill with fiberglass first then cover with foam board (taped) Thanks! Exterior foam of 2″ will keep the dew point to the outside of the foam so the cellulose will stay drier and it will provide a thermal break and wind barrier over the whole wall, including the sill joists. Interior French Drains are a great way to intercept and remove water from basements. Southwest Ohio. I doing this myself, with the help of my lovely bride, and could use any help you might provide. Thank you again. In my professional opinion you really should REMOVE the old drywall first. What do you think we should do with the plaster that is covering the brick? Now my question is, rather than strapping the ISO and adding drywall, could I add some sort of beaded board (cedar, pine, beaded plywood, etc) to cover the ISO for the ceiling rather than using drywall. It will be a two story with a furnished walkout basement (built on a hill facing the water). I am looking to add insulation to the above grade bedrooms on the North side of the home. How do you plan on using them? The problem is it will hold water like a sponge. This is the product that I typically use to insulate basement walls. Theresa – I sure don’t want to get in the middle of a house hold feud but I’ll give you my two cents. If it were me I’d go with 1-1/2″ of foam board and call it good unless there’s a more specific code issue. In hotter climates some folks insulate the roof deck with reflective radiant barrier insulation to help reflect the heat back out. So, we're looking at options to claw back some of the insulation lost to the siding while avoiding too much of a moisture or water vapor barrier. Thanks for any info. Shop Polyiso Insulation. I decided to try the R tech in one of the windows, but I had some concerns about a fire hazard. Last year’s winter was a mild one and we went through 1,000 gallons of oil! In most areas there are minimum required insulation values for cathedral ceilings and attics. Do you have a vapor barrier on the exterior wall over the batt insulation? You may want to consider insulating it with just foam board to really eliminate the problem all together. Almost every code requires a 15 minute thermal barrier. Most foil faced products must be protected with a 15 minute thermal barrier. I have humidity getting into the basement (unfinished). (5-Panels) (106) Model# AMDKIT001 $ 56 08. I want to keep the ventilation space I have proposed between the polyiso and OSB if possible (and including a ridge vent) to help reduce any moisture issues. We are converting our 21×28 garage into a family room. I was thinking of adding 1/2″ polyiso foam covered with dry wall to the interior of the two ezposed walls. 1. What would you do if it was your place and you were looking forward to that extreme of cold? I need to install attic baffles (which is a pain, I’m working on trying to pre-glue and pushing them into position at the soffit ends) but that will take time. What about using Open Cell foam to allow the concrete to breathe more or is this nonsense? That would give me an R-5 for now (plus anything I might add in the 1.5″ void provided by the flat 2×4’s of the truss). I will install blue board between the studs then insulation over top. Home Construction & Improvement™ is a Trademark of Front Steps Media, LLC. Then you can add more foam or supplement with fiberglass. I get the early morning sun. Thanks. If you don’t do that you will have moisture/mold problems in the future. I want to convert my 2 car garage to a man cave/entertain room. Would this work? Is this method sufficient? My concern(s) are that I do not want to add furring strips for solid siding attachment, as I want to secure the siding directly through the rigid foam. I removed the plaster and lathe from the interior and want to fir it out 1-1/2, using blue board between the studs. In this house there is 4″ of rigid foam on the OUTSIDE and the interior walls of the 8″ reinforced CIP walls are coated with two coats of Ultra DryLok followed by two coats of SW highly reflective paint. Once you install 2″, you can frame a wall, then you can use fiberglass if you wish to get the desired R value. I love in Montreal, Canada and I had water infiltration in the basement cause by a foundation crack which has been repaired. It is exposed on 3 sides (s,w,n) and currently only has r11. Also, your attic insulation is way below the recommended minimum for your area. So one suggestion I’ve gotten to is place 4″ of polyiso sheathing on top of the cellulose filled cavity, and put a bit of cheap OSB or ply on top to protect the surface of the polyiso from dents. Don’t look at the inital cost of construction without doing the math on the energy savings ove time. Good luck. Good luck. I'm also a licensed civil and structural engineer with extensive experience in civil and structural design and home construction. The exterior of the home is brick and the dormers are going to be vinyl sided. I have three questions (1) can I use Polystyrene / Polyisocyanurate Insulated sheathing (1/2 inch or 1 inch) to on block (2) have French drain & sump-pump, it gets busy when rains, any special suggestions (3) do I have to put framing and insulation, and drywall??? Good luck. In many locations today you need upwards of R50 for attic ceilings. If you’re going to use foam board, then be sure each layer is sealed to the joists VERY well. Hi Todd, Thanks for all your information. It would be far easier if you install a layer of foam over the existing plus you get more insulating value that way. In essence I think you might amplify the sound. Plywood sheathing, tightly shiplapped 3/4" vertical cedar siding. STYRO Industries FP Ultra Lite 1 in. Thanks. This is important with regards to condensation. This sounds like it would be essentially a “hot roof” which is not uncommon in Canada. So even adding the 3/4″ and sealing it would be a big improvement. Thanks. The more the better. The boxes will be stored indoors when not in use. Use the extruded…it’s really the best option. I’ve removed the paneling, and was planning on gluing 3/4″ foam to the concrete between the furing strips, then another 3/4″ layer over it all. thanks. The old construction of this house does not lend itself well to energy efficiency. Humidity is also an issue. It’s VERY important that all the seams in the foam be sealed. Clear, concise and direct – exactly what I could not get locally. Skip – It really depends on how you’re going to use it? (They were removed from a walk-in cooler.) Most builders will place blocking behind the window flanges, 1×4, or something similar so the windows have a good solid connection. I’m refurbishing a 1950’s finished basement in Seattle. Well let me start with this and I’m assuming your local building official will also evaluate. Do you have access to both sides of the wall? WE live in northern michigan so it does get cool it is a new home built last year… What should I do? The attic is a conditioned space, it’s a 1.5 story home with the room-in-attic addition and I will be building gabled dormers in the middle of the roof line on each side of the house that will take up about 1/3 of the total roof area. Todd, I am insulating my Seattle basement . I’ve read this whole thread, and would like to get advice. This is one of the only forums where there is no “agenda” to sell a specific item – and that is great. 3. I was gung ho on spray foam until a friend was concerned about overheating the shingles. Then I was going to later add some R-19 or R-30 batts or rolls on the side facing the unfinished attic. Also, what type of fasteners should I use for the foam and the siding? As we now know, CFCs have a disastrous effect on the ozone layer protecting the planet. I plan on replacing the roofing this spring. Brian. Corky, 1. Something just keeps spooking me about working with the thicker pieces. The outside temperature regularly gets into the teens and single digits during the winter. I want to make sure that I do not set myself up for moisture problems down the road. Closer investigation revealed carpenter ants emerging directly above and dropping off their cargo, chewed out from the inside of this insulation. That vapor barrier stops moisture from the foundation concrete from getting into the framed wall assembly. Do I need to seal these gaps and if so, how? If you install the foam between studs in the same plane as electrical boxes you’ll need to seal them well. In order to square the walls the 2×4’s are anywhere from 1/2″ to 1 1/4″ from concrete walls and the 2×6 ceiling is about 1/2″ to 2″ from concrete ceiling. What can I do, working from the inside? Then sheet with OSB, felt paper and shingles. DyLoc is just added protection…not sure how much it buys you in the grand scheme of things. The layers from the outside would be the: A) exterior cladding / siding, B) plywood or whatever is recommended, C) insulation panels – or roll insulation if absolutely required, and D) the existing interior drywall. Secondly there are lots of folks out there that argue about Tyvek (or house wrap) over foam board insulation under siding. Dylan – Can you install it over the fiberglass or are there floor boards over the existing fiberglass? Mike. However, a product like that will really only help with horizontal siding products. Is this necessary for the walls above grade/shared walls? Great site you have I came across it and will check your tool box buzz site out also. You might have to special order it. I’m not sure about termites…we don’t have them up here…so that might influence what type of foam to use. 12 inches of water is in my opinion a basement that shouldn’t be finished. I do not want to remove the attic floor to insulate. They also state that seams should not be taped (at least in the horizontal position)? What are your recomendations. The air is not freezing cold but you can just tell it is a few degrees cooler than the inside room temp. Per square foot of R-value, rigid foam board insulation costs about twice as much as fiberglass. The room is heated as well as the floor is infloor heat which has been off for a couple weeks now. My question: What is the minimum blue board thickness I can use for the vapor barrier? I cut each panels to fit snuggly between rafters or furring strips however there are gaps although they are smaller than the plastic nozzle ox expanding foam cans. I will continue to check throughout the winter. Foil side towards the door or away from it. It may be tough to tear down what I have done, or should I just finish with 1″. I live in a 2nd floor north west coast condo and one external wall in the condo is poured concrete (i believe) and is insulated with well taped pink fiberglass and then covered with vapor barrier and then drywall. The height of the truss is only 50″ at the center so it would taper down as I would work towards the ends. I only have 2×8 ceiling joists and was wondering if I could put either foil faced polyiso or blue board poly directly against my roof sheathing underside, then spray foam and seal all of the gaps? This creates issues at door and windows with sills, jambs, etc. Keep it clean. This will bring me to a 6 9/16 jam for the new windows. You can certainly add another layer. I installed 2″ foil faced poly panels between the rafters and kept the remaining 1.5 inches as the air channel between the soffits and ridge vent. Certainly that’s a very nice upgrade compared to regular fiberglass with no exterior foam. Is that something I should agree to ? It will be to much work to take down the framed walls at this point. ps. Another quick question about siding selection. What do you think of this? The polyiso does act as a bit of vapor barrier which in this case should be close to the warm surface. We were recently told that we should remove the batting insulation as it will produce moisture between the two insulations. Again I haven’t tried them so I’m not sure what advice I can give you. Concrete can transmit cold easily so if the entire wall isn’t insulated well it could still be an issue if the temps get really low. DO NOT put any type of fiberglass in contact with the masonry. You could also check with the manufacturer. Then complete the rest with 1-1/2″ sheets. There are a couple issues you’d need to deal with. Obviously you’ve got a tight space to work in but I’d get at least one layer of 2″ foam against the exterior rim joist. Here’s my question: I’ve added about 12ft by 10 to a garage extension in northern NY and want to heat it so I can work in it during the cold winter months. So, the electrical in a studded cavity along an ICF wall is less expensive than along a conventional poured or block wall. I haven’t priced it out – but since it’s “solid” though more work than then spray foam – if sealed well, it would achieve the same result – right? I understand that it will certainly help with the temperature control in the rooms and I know it is recommended for that point alone but, is it against building codes to not install it as well prior to drywalling? todd….We are in need of any of your advice. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge on insulation. from the interior to the exterior – plastic, batt insulation, OSB, tyvek, foam board insulation). So you can actually install the pressure treated sill plate to the inside of the wall and frame above that with standard framing, 2×6, 1/2″ sheathing. The wall has metal studs looks like 4 inch. Is there any reason to use xps instead of eps against the concrete wall? And why are they important? Many builders skip that to control costs. The thought was to close this with closed cell spray foam. He said he was a contractor and that I needed to seal the concrete before I put up any insulation. The 1 inch foam on the outside of the 2×8 is ok but you’ll need more R value (planning on more insulation in the wall cavity?). I don’t know what else to do to prevent the moisture besides not running our dishwasher or cooking wich isn’t much of an option. Michele – Not really, the real issue is being sure it’s closed cell foam. There are three basic foam insulation board products on the market produced under several different manufacturer names. Thoughts? Thank you Todd for the quick and informative answer. Do I need to insulate and seal the entire cellar & floor in order for the insulation to be useful? Not sure how I feel about polyiso under the slab, I’d probably just use one of the reflective bubble wrap type products if you want extra reflective properties. If and once you that then you can bring the insulation right down to the top of the drain, any water behind the foam will drop down into the drain. The price was about 500.00 cheaper if I went with that instead of just 2″ of closed cell on the walls. Thanks!! On the concrete walls, I would use the Ultra DryLok. It is a well levelled concrete garage floor. The sun gets pretty hot and I was concerned if the insulation got to hot and dry day after day it might combust. I have a couple thoughts. Look for coatings that are both UV “Blocking” and Resistant. I live in northeast Georgia (summer hits 95 some times and winter goes down to freezing temps at times) and I am looking to finish my basement (aprox. Hopefully this is not too goofy a question for this forum, but I see dual picnic taps (coolers with either coils or coldplates that have the beer lines run so ice cools the beer as it passed through the coils in the cooler) costing around $250. All of this bounded by a perimeter of 2x4s that the plywood would be screwed into? Once water gets into that stuff it will be trapped and cause all kinds of problems. Is it necessary? No need for vapor barrier if you seal all the joints well. 2 inches of foam on a roof isn’t nearly enough in my opinion. Do you think that I should just sister some 2×8 rafters next to the 2x4s that are currently there, install a ventilated drip-edge and keep the insulation at least an inch from the sheeting and install a ridge vent or is there a better way of doing this? One place I looked said that sealing the concrete could lead to other problems. I'm also the Editor-in-Chief and Founder of Tool Box Buzz. Here is another great use for the panels. If that’s the case it’s still something you might be able to DIY. You can do the same thing with ICFs, but you do not have to run conduit because the wiring is not exposed to concrete. Rigid foam insulation tends to have a low to moderate R-value per dollar, compared to fiberglass. The shop is only 7yrs old and the roof is in good shape. I would recommend checking out http://www.buildingscience.com they have great information on all types of insulation. Anything short of this and you’ll have serious moisture and mold problems. Todd- Thank you for your help, unfortunately the wall that concerns me the most is the one that is hardest to deal with. I decided to make a storage room out of it instead of backfilling. Question is which rigid foam insulation is best “Pink or Blue”? I lifted my house 7′ and framed a wall from the existing foundation up to the new height of the house. Recommendation: One 605 Board … Jacob – You can find Tyvek tape as most big box stores and lumber yards. GPS’ special feature is its R-value’s longevity. Scott – The answer depends on your local energy code and what R value you need. Finally, I also found another article by building science management which basically states that the same comments in the article that you posted above? Obviously that poses some issues on siding or interior wall finish. As of July 2010 our county adopted a new energy code that requires a minimum of R38 for any re-roofing applications. I would HIGHLY recommend you read another one of my articles about properly insulating a basement. I have read that a fire barrier needs to be added such as drywall. Do you think open side of the box (foam side) should have a cover? Should I spray that wall also or just put 2″ of foam board inbetween the studs? I would install some type of wrap whether traditional or even tar paper over the old siding before the new foam. Learn More, XPS HFC Bans Won’t Matter When You Use Halo. I really wish contractors didn’t offer such “poor” options. Cost = Cheapest of the foam insulation boards. Hi Todd, we just bought a house with a 32×24, 10’wall metal pole barn garage, uninsulated, it has 1×6 horz. That said, the long term R-values of this foam board decline over time. We live in Ohio, if that helps, and have had no moisture problems in past. Good luck. I’d put the XPS against the outside, then ISO. http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation-guide/ http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/how-to-insulate-basement-walls/. 3/4″ foam won’t do all that much to stop heat on a metal roof. Questions from top working down: – 2″ air space between sheathing and 1st Polyiso board for ventilation from eaves to vented cap, any moisture issue? My question is what is the best foam to use, do I need a housewrap, if so where sould it be placed, under or over the foam. The rafters are 2x4s on this 1920’s era home and I don’t want to lower the height of the room-in-attic ceiling if at all possible. It has great thermal properties and even helps with acoustic properties. Any suggestions? Foil faced insulation should have a much better flame spread number than just foam board. Obviously that’s not easy with foam board. I would recommend insulating all of the exterior walls. Now all I have left is the back side of the brick with 1X3 furring strips nailed on the inside 16″ OC so I only have 3/4″ or so due to the furring strips. I would assume a layer of Tyvek house wrap should also be installed before the siding is replaced. I have solar electric panels on a rack above the roof (which will provide shade) & there will be vent fans. The new line includes 3 new models; DWE7480 - 10" Compact Table Saw, DWE7491X - 10" Table Saw with Scissor Stand, and DWE7491RS - 10" Table Saw with…. ), then sandwich the foam between the next hat channel and screw them together? Gary – That solution will help. Is there any advantage with using EPS insulation for “non Basement” framed wall? Insulating the doors might be a bit of a challenge. 2. 4- Can I install torch applied membrane on the insulation, is there any primer? How To Insulate Basement Walls Insulating a basement properly is rather challenging in cold climates. Is the wall a wall between a finished room and attic space? 1- Is there a specific vapour barrier that goes under polyiso? I have constructed a metal frame bldg. All foam boards should have a thermal covering to protect from fire. Thank you so much again. You can just install ISO foam board insulation, then a layer of plywood with long screws. As you know it can get extremely hot in the south. Sounds like they found it was a good material to nest in. The idea is to create the maximum amount of R value to keep heat from below from reaching that roof surface. There is some old siding board behind the XPS. Hey Todd, im going to be siding my house this spring . I havea fifth wheel camper I would like to enclose around the bottom to save on propane heat costs. Thaen there would be a problem of how to secure the second layer of drywall through the foamboard. I find that Lowes and Home Depot don’t have a good selection of these type of materials. We do have room in the ceiling so we will probably go with R-38 fiberglass. If you put it in the stud cavities then it won’t be a continuous layer. I have a 1938 home about 1/2 hour south of Minneapolis, MN. I have an enclosed(aluminum) car hauler. However see the article listed by DuPont: http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weatherization/en_US/assets/downloads/pdfs/K25107_Weather_Barrier_a_Must_with_Exterior_Foam_Sheathing_Tech_Bulletin.pdf. This room only has 1 wall that is above ground. There is no duct heating in this room and it will be closed off. What is your opinion? Like Todd, I originally thought that bugs would hesitate to chomp on polyisocyanurate. Donna – I think some insulation products will be attractive to bugs. The DIY spray kits all needs to be used at once – and this project cannot be done all at once, and it is the second floor. The bottom of the drain plane should have screen of some sort as you pointed out. Here are a couple thoughts. Anyway, should I go with faced or unfaced fiberglass insulation? Using this way of attachment the xps board could not come off because of the barbs but there was also a good thermal barrier between the wire and the foam–no chance of a thermal bridge. First of all controlling the RH will always help in these situations. We’ve built several homes in the last two years that use less than 50% of the energy that previous homes use. The following is what we have. #1) **** Now, working from the outside – would the foam panels be a viable option? We removed the chimney penetrations and replace any damaged T&G. Foam Board Insulation . That’s what’s used on flat roofs under rubber/pvc roof linings. Now, what kind of insulation do you recommend? Be nice. I have a concern about the space between the back of the studs and the block wall. In temperatures of 25°F and below, for instance, these panels gain an extra … Hi We are insulating and attic to make it another bedroom.Can we use 1″ isoboard and leave a 1″ gap between the second sheet isoboard? In that situation I’d recommend spray foam. foil facing up? – These sealers do an ok job of stopping nominal water vapor. However, as I suggested earlier you’d have to get an opinion from your local building official if it’s ok. They are cold or hot to the touch depending on the outside weather. 2×6 construction and have the building weather tight but framing exposed inside. It’s really too risky to go with fiberglass with only an inch of foam. Which way should the foil face ? Had polyiso insulation on the concrete inch foil-faced polyiso insulation on exterior of the best one if you can pieces. 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